Paris on a roll, Day 1-4
Maybe it’s because a lot of labels/houses have moved up their shows to the earlier days, after seeing Lanvin yesterday I felt like fashion week is over but fact is there’s still 5 days more.
So far so good, even Dior this season seems to be back on track a little. Galliano’s obssession with sheer and vibrant colours continues. Whatever factor that has been lacking in his past 3, 4 ready-to-wear collections is still lingering around in this Fall 09′ effort but it is definitely a lot more likable than the previous few. Everything looks fine in the opening 20 looks or more when the Poiret inspiration is apparent, and from there on, the same sheer dresses, colours, Dior classic intepretions all over again. The drappy baggy pants seems new but at first glance I have a strong deja vu with John Galliano Fall 08′, and the gowns at the end, gorgeous but nothing new. Stage set, accessories and the usual dramatic makeup/hair helped a lot in making the collection to look good, but the clothes alone can never live without them, no? Can’t believe that Dior these days can tired people.
Balenciaga, on the other hand, is a little underwhelming this season, and very commericial too. Maybe I am too used to seeing the ultra sleek silhouettes of the past few seasons, the frumpiness of the drapping is very turn-off, and it is clearly not as strong or directional as it could have been but Ghesquiere still managed to offer quite a vision of French chic, something that didn’t happen for Spring 09’s.
As expected, yet another moody Fall collection from Alber. Lanvin does Parisian in a different manner, safe but not boring. When he got a little experimental (check the the exposed seams), he made sure that he doesn’t overdo it. I find it hard to even spot a misstep out of all 49 looks. Simply bravo. It’s slightly more grown-up than Spring but modern, sophisticated and versatile, any kind of women can look good in Lanvin.
I can’t help but started picturing Tilda Swinton in a lot this, Tilda+Lanvin=perfection.
Olivier Theyskens must be in Feel Good Inc right now. Though rumored to be his last collection for Nina Ricci, he walked out with a bang. This show is filled with so much shock factor it’s almost un-Ricci. It’s too edgy for his own good but it is a postive change after all because his biggest mistake last season is probably being too consistent and ignorant to the business side of fashion. If you want to browse through this collection, skip to the end, that’s the real Theyskens. Shedding away all the romanticism his famous for is not a good move at the first place. Glittery minis? Hot pink dresses? Did his intern made all that for him?
I am loving both Maison Martin Margiela and Yohji Yamamoto this season. MMM has some seriously well cut and jackets and suits, a lot of them, which I thought is rather rare for his show. Yohji’s collection only consists of three colours, some white, mostly black and the red. The way the colour slowly seeps into the looks at the end, climbing on to the sleeves the hem, is really interesting. Other than that, the same usual voluminous coats, with cute shoes all by Ferragamo.
About Gareth Pugh… how I wish it was a runway presentation instead of video, but worse news is that his work is starting to receive comparisons with Rick Owens, which I don’t think is correct at all. It’s just his second Paris show, he has a lot of time to step up to his game.
[images: style.it, style.com, catwalking]