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Milan menswear Fall 09′ wrap-up

January 21, 2009

Here comes the Gangs of New York Milan:

gangs-of-new-york-1

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Alexander McQueen                                       Moschino

Like what Juan had mentioned, at McQueen it is The Gangs of NY mixed with A Clockwork Orange plus the mood of London town. This collection is probably one of his best in the recent years. As dramatic as it can be, the show is creepy as the male models were slapped with eerily pale makeup and they walked with such menace while clutching the canes as if their rent is due tonight (watch the video and you will know what I am talking about). But that is just like any other McQueen effect no less, if he doesn’t shock you he is no McQueen. The collection also had one of the most amount of different types of layerings and materials in Milan— leather, knit, prints, fur, wool and so on. The elements of torture and anger are pretty apparent, in true McQueen form. You can even spot hints of a skull motif on the shirt in this look. Overall, this is just very,very pleasing.

My favourite looks from McQueen:

The gorgeous brocade coat (wish he had more of this) and the long knit cardigan secured with buckles.

mcqueen-brocademcqueen-long-knit

Moving on to Prada.

I am surprised by the minimalism, how easy on the eyes it is (for last season, the rubber coats and halters, need time to figure out). Actually, I think it is the safest, most non-experimenting effort from her. The silhouette is very normal at least, but since she is Prada, what make the pieces stood out are the studs and the material. According to her, this collection is about survival… in this tough economic times, Miuccia?

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Next up, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi at Gianfranco Ferre. The suits, the suits… tailoring is so impeccable that they really did put some other collections’ to shame. But it seems like the duo is still stuck under the pressure of recurring Ferre’s aesthetics while still trying to push things forward, I think the major fail right here are the giant scarves. At first look, I like it (reminds me of Giles Fall 07), then again, it’s Ferre, wrong place much?

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At Jil Sander, Raf’s play with proportion (see the slight emphasis on the waist) is just… wrong. Other wise, the coats with the dye are the highlights.

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Frida Gianni for Gucci. Seriously, are we still expecting anything spectacular from her? The clothes are probably designed for pretty boys, rock stars with too much money. But come on, at least give a more pleasant colour palette? Mustard, blue, white collar, under a suit? This is lacking in taste.

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Lastly, some trendspotting, check these asymmetrical looks on the runways of Neil Barrett and Trussardi.

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Till Paris.

 

(see all MMFW collections here)

Images: men.style.com, frillr.com
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10 Comments leave one →
  1. hpb_ysl permalink
    January 21, 2009 11:24 pm

    excellent recap! 🙂

  2. January 22, 2009 12:24 am

    thanks for the nice overiew! now we know what to expect from the boys for next winter…:)

  3. January 22, 2009 6:02 am

    I totally loved the Alexander McQueen collection.
    Even thought the Prada collection seems effortless the result was amazing!
    In Gucci talk, I think she is just playing safe, well and it is exactly “designed for pretty boys, rock stars with too much money” -I wish I was one of those, hihi, you got me, I just love that “kind” of clothes.
    As much as I love Raf, that Jil Sander collection was just hideous -sorry Raf-

  4. January 22, 2009 6:09 am

    PS: The Gangs of NY thing was amazing!
    hihi Thanks for the reference link 🙂

  5. January 22, 2009 6:41 am

    Most of these menswear are…well, unwearable for 99% of the population.

    And the Jil Sander’s dyed coat looked like Prada’s tri-colored coat from women’s wear of two seasons ago.

  6. Jason permalink
    January 22, 2009 11:32 am

    actually, the Jil Sander multi-colour coats aren’t dyed but knitted, by admission from Raf himself.

    That’ll probably allow them to jack up the prices so much that even the 1% who will wear those jackets, unable to afford them anyway.

  7. January 22, 2009 4:01 pm

    An interesting read – some good tips here

  8. January 23, 2009 2:14 am

    I am very pleased with McQueen, and for Jil Sander i could’nt imagine theses shapes on other silhouette, for Ferre its kinda harsh all the review they are getting, im still very convinced they can make somethin better.

  9. tisserendipity permalink
    January 25, 2009 10:41 pm

    This was a great overview of menswear from the runway; I really enjoyed reading it =) I can totally imagine Jonny Depp in the brocade coat from McQueen. Kinda Willy Wonka-esque. Ugh I totally agree with you about how the Jil Sander coat with the tailored waist is just wrong! >< Looked really strange and only the model’s good looks saved it which would be even harder for people of average build and looks to pull it off. Those asymmetrical looks are pretty interesting haha but the look kinda reminds me of some bionic man. ;p

    Hope we can exchange links! =) I’ve added you to my blogroll

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