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The avant-gardists of London

September 17, 2008

Seriously, how would you ever get bored by the collections at London? It’s only Day 3 and I feel like I have just seen 10 New York fashion week. A lot of you will say that I can’t compare the dressing culture of these two fashion capitals together— New York is more about sportswear and wearability, and London is more about pushing the boundaries and thinking out of the box. But a show is a show, I have been very entertained these past 3 days.

Christopher Kane

According to Kane, the inspiration behind this collection is ”Planet of the Apes” and toy dinosaurs, and there goes the predator theme. The Gorilla print, the disturbing colours and the bulging scales are very haunting. It is almost a horror show. The thing about Kane is that he changes direction every season. Looking at the images of this collection, I can’t believe that his famous debut was full of tight neon mini dresses. Does Donatella still want him as her successor?


Pac-Man! Actually, besides the over-the-top helmets, the clothes are very wearable and adorable, the dresses are to-die-for. While they are not Luella-cute, the colour palette sure is. But coming from this guy who is one of the resident headline acts in London every season, he could have done a lot better, not that this is bad.

Louis Goldin

Like Schwab pre-commercialism, Goldin, now on her third season, has been taking body consciousness a new level and she carries a scientific approach to it– “I spent hours in libraries researching data and being inspired by graphs, statistics, and high-tech fabrics developed for medicine.” This collection is mostly white & grey in colour, quite a departure but so much more wearable and sensible. It’s a type of soft futurism that I guess women would like to try on.

Ashley Isham

The most famous local designer out of town has returned to his signature draping… but there are some other looks I like also, particularly the metallic corset top. The colours he used are one of the richest, and most optimistic Spring colours I have seen so far. 



images:, catwalking
2 Comments leave one →
  1. September 18, 2008 4:11 am

    So true! London Fashion Week has always been about avant garde fashion. Alexander McQueen & John Galliano started out in London and they are still as outrages as ever.

    NY Fashion Week has always been considered a “weak” place to do a show because of the emphasis of sportswear but it has gained huge momentum in the last decade or so due to the amount of money generated by the designers showing here.

    But Paris and Milan are still King and Queen of Fashion.

  2. September 18, 2008 8:55 pm

    YUP!! LOVE LOVE Louise Goldin and Christopher Kane, and I do agree with you 101% that Giles Deacon can do a much better job that this season’s. His past 2 seasons created such an impact in me!
    And of course, ASHLEY ISHAM! Our pride and glory! And Alice Burdeu walked for him! Wooh! Double loves!

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